USFiltermaxx

Both the rod and bung hole are typically covered with oil and not likely to spark anymore than the bearings in your car. I do cover it with a rag to keep vapors in the tank but because percentage of gas in the mix low, the partial pressure of the gas in the mix is also low. There are not strong vapors. This is not a high speed mixer. At 200 rpm you are looking at about 7.8 inches per second surface speed which is pretty low for oiled steel.

There is a remote potentiometer on a cable. I set the speed for 6000G and leave it. The ramp time is programed for 20 seconds so it has a soft start, coast to stop. This make for a very low stress unit both electrically and mechanically. You can vary the speed with the pot while it is running but there is considerable kinetic energy in that spinning bowl and abrupt speed changes can stress the motor driver circuit. The driver circuit is rated for 260% of the motor maximum current.

The unit in the video has a remote potentiometer for speed. The newer controllers have the pot on the front panel. The variable speed controller set does have the flow sensor.

I've been running black diesel for 10 years. Non turbo, OK. Turbo REALLY works good. I use Banks turbos on my engines. For long term success you should centrifuge it. There is a lot of things that you can't filter out if you don't. See our channel for a few goop and black diesel videos... On another note, that's a funny photo you posted! chuckle

Aluminum Centrifuge - stainless steel spindle, collet and bowl hardware. Nearly indestructible and easily rebuilt. Motor chugs along at 1800 RPM while bowl spins at 5000. Commercial duty runs 24/7 day in day out. Extreme cleaning for your oil.

Nice little video of our US FIltermaxx Centrifuge. Regarding cleaning the bowl, it is best to just scrape it out with the little wooden paddle that comes in the box. Doesn't have to be clean enough to eat off of, just scrape the heavy goop out evenly around the bowl. We don't recommend taking the bowl apart. Itis a precision balanced assembly. Also, heating the oil thins it so that you can remove even more goop. :0)

Furthermore, if the long-period settling worked as well as a centrifuge, then you wouldn't need those filters. If you do need the filters then that means you still have particles larger than about 10 microns, which means the oil has not been cleaned well enough. The most damaging particulates are about 4 microns or less, which that filter will never remove. I build and sell high quality centrifuges that remove sub-micron particulates. Check out my videos.

Yes, I recommend mixing with diesel for more safety. Check out my channel and my book "Alternative Energy Secrets" to learn all about this and more.

Best regards,

Stephen Chastain

You should really clean the oil better than any filter can by using a centrifuge. A good centrifuge will also clean the oil much quicker. I have a practical book titled "Alternative Energy Secrets" that you should check out it you want to do this type of thing safely. Having to replace your injectors or and other engine parts will wipe out your savings. Check out my videos.

You have a decent setup, but you might want a better centrifuge if you are running SVO or even motor, transmission, or hydraulic oil. Check out my video of centrifuge WMO cleaning results and see what you think.

@thetrico You need to clean the oil first or else you will ruin your injectors at some point at minimum. There IS a lot of gunk in filtered used oils. Check out my video to see how much SOLID crud my centrifuge cleans from the oil. The spinner centrifuge from PA Biodiesel really doesn't clean much. You need a larger more powerful centrifuge to pull out much more of the sub-micron particulates and other goop.

@mytickets I highly recommend that you stop mixing vegetable oil with motor oil