Welding2012

If it were code work the rods would need to be kept in a rod oven to keep them dry however for my purpose here I just keep them in a rod tube. One thing if they do get a lot of moisture you will have problems with the flux toe nailing when you weld. But you are correct textbook would say to keep them in an oven however practically and realistically most 7018's are not kept in an oven.

Can you import parts from solidworks or inventor directly into the program?

I am not sure if someone already answered this but just in case here is your answer. Under cut is no good it compromises the structural integrity of the base metal by reducing the thickness thus making the metal weaker along the edges of the weld making an excellent spot for failure of the weld joint.

Shit aint nobody got time for a CNC a good steady hand keeps things interesting.

I would say as good as any flame cutting method I mean as far as piercing it is the same procedure as with acetylene just need the correct size tip and a steady hand. One thing i have found with cutting nice small diameter holes is start in the middle pierce through and keep tracing the outside of that until you reach the desired diameter at least for me this works well. Good luck!!

have fun laying under your car welding with a pedal

The truesight lens will fit into the HSL100 I keep one in the truck as a backup.

I would cut the plate to length tack one side on use the torch that was used to prep the piece heat the middle and beat it around the piece. But hey either works fine I do believe I would have ran a weave over those beads just to cover my ass

Guess they don't call you Mr.tig for nothing looks like you are a little rusty but more amps will help a ton. Really enjoy the videos

Gotta love horseshoe projects so much you can do

Should have went straight at the light lol

*or

Noticed if the machine is not running you have to pull the trigger once to get the machine going then a second time for the arc to start. Other than that looks like a good machine as long as it has good longevity!

I feel like if the tips are stainless they would not rust. I put some like that on my buddies truck they were from autozone as well hopefully you have better luck with them then he did rusted out in like 3 months

By far the best glasses wont use anything else, matter of fact think I have just about every pair. Fit great under a welding helmet also they make some that are bifocals bought a pair for the ol man and he loves them. I prefer the smoke lens over the blue mirror they are just a little to dark for my liking.

Just about 4.5 to 5 inches varies a little from front to back depending on how the torsion keys are set up.

That stick machine is not the same as Chucke's and yes it is an Estwing hammer by far the best can usually find them at local welding supply companies or on the internet.

need to make some ramps

Those are not Hobart they are Orville Redenbacher jk i do believe that those are hobarts.

I have used dewalts,makita, bosch, Milwaukee, and a few others all good tools but it you abuse them they will all burn up especially with an oversized cutoff wheel. Moral to the story use them for a bit and then let them cool.

those 11 amp grinders are nice. Not a huge fan of the trigger but you get used to it.

its hard to mess up after welding for awhile isn't it

not to mention when you bevel you can grind weld smooth (if nessesary)without totally compromising joint strength

Hobart TR-250 all the way lol

Always chip slag with safety glasses on! Your eyes are like magnets for that stuff and it is sharp as glass and hot.

Yea a very sharp tungsten would be key to pinpointing the heat however since that was not critical and just for fun I did not clean the tungsten as much as i should have the second one I did I took better care of the tungsten and had much better results. Also a tungsten grinder or chemical sharpener helps to prevent deep grooves running perpendicular to the tip which impedes the arc a slight bit and with that low of amps every little detail counts.

the tank should have had a rubber washer on it because I tried the same thing you did with the washers. Also have to be careful to put the choke back in properly seems like you got it otherwise you need fluid to start it. I feel ya with the frustration spent quite a few late nights in the shop last summer with the KLR in parts. Gotta love kickin on it trouble shooting.

Hell yea RUGGED! And it wasn't a jump it was my bridge lol I was checking the suspension travel

dude if you want an electrode to give you fits get your hands on some 7024.

Ain't she sweet if you just push down on the starter once then kick it she will fire every time first push down gets you to the compression stroke then give er a kick and thats all she wrote lol.

Wow you did all that for 20 holes in 1/8" plate I have found it useful to make a jig to center the bar on the drill press and then just slide it down but I guess if I had a bad ass plasma like that I would want to use it.